A dining room at Gaulthier, London, England.

Jill is American but lives in London with her British husband, Malcolm.  We met in 2003 at a dinner held by our Italian friend, Patrizia in an Umbrian hill town.  We became fast friends, and are still very close despite the distance that separates us.  Both Jill and Malcolm enjoy good food, and eating well.  That only solidified the friendship.  I’ve had the pleasure of being at table with Jill and Malcolm in Los Angeles, London and Italy.  Every once in awhile Jill sends me notes, emails, of somewhere she and Malcolm have just been, of the things they ate.  The way she writes about the dishes is like culinary poetry to me.  This is partially due to the way the British write about ingredients, and their use of differing words for the same ingredients we use in the U.S. but it’s primarily Jill’s way of describing a dish that is so captivating.

Jill is a novelist and book editor by trade so she is well-versed in English; she also has a writer’s ear for language.  She and Malcolm recently celebrated a birthday by going out to a couple of London restaurants.   Here in her own words where they went after a visit to an art gallery:

“We had a snackette at Clarke’s before going on to visit Ham House and Garden, south of the river — a nearly intact 17th century historic house.  From there, we walked along the river to Petersham Nurseries, where, oh my, the food was good!  I started with a rose prosecco, then had homemade linguine with meltingly soft cherry tomatoes and black olives, a soupçon of lemon.  The main course was new season’s garlic sliced in cross sections (so it looked like marble) and served with torpedo onions and soft, gooey caprina cheese — like mascarpone.  For pudding I had lemon possett with rhubarb and Malcolm had a blood orange and lemon tart.”

So my questions to the above are: What are torpedo onions?  What is lemon possett?  I haven’t looked up the answers.  I’m not sure I want or need to know.  They sound so exotic.  I also haven’t heard of caprina cheese but it also sounds amazing.  And I already know that pudding means dessert.

The next day Jill went to lunch at Gauthier in SoHo, and this is what she ate:

“I had watercress velouté to start, then duck egg, followed by a cheese selection. Very, very good, and all hosted in a Georgian townhouse in Soho.”

Several years back she and Malcolm were in Rome:

“I must tell you about a meal Malcolm and I had in Rome8 today.  First we went to a gelato place by the Pantheon where I had rose and dark, dark chocolate ice cream.  A marvel, I’m telling you.  At lunch I had pasta (two different types because I couldn’t decide — the nice waiter said he’d get them to make both for me, only one serving) with a citrus and nut sauce, and the more interesting one was with a grape sauce.  Lemon, wine, grape, no garlic or onion.  Malcolm had a pasta with — get this — fig, cinnamon and a clove sauce.  It was truly wonderful.  I had rice pudding with blackberries for dessert and Malcolm had baked yellow plums with a kind of marzipan custard.  The coffee came in tall espresso cups with tiny lids on them.  A religious experience, to be sure.”

*The restaurant in Rome is Ristorante Trattoria.

So tell me, dear readers, don’t her words of food make you want to taste every last morsel?  They do me.  I think I’ll keep on saving these, who knows one day there may even be a book.

100 Miles Shout Outs! Local events, mini-reviews, and mentions of things happening in the world of food:

#1 – Honest Cooking ~ I’m now a Contributing Writer to the new online food magazine Honest Cooking.  My most recent story is “L.A. – Return of the Neighborhood Butcher.” I’ll be writing several pieces a month about the L.A. food scene.

#2 – Saturday, April 23, 11 am – 6 pm ~ The 2nd 8th Annual Grilled Cheese Invitational, a grilled cheese cooking competition.  You cook.  Judges vote.  Everybody wins!

#3 – Sunday, May 15, 1 pm – 5 pm, ~ Taste of the Eastside 2011, an all-star regional tasting event with a diverse array of Eastside restaurants at Barnsdall Art Park.

My Status:  Enjoying the gradual arrival of spring in So Cal and the new spring produce: artichokes, asparagus, and the tail end of winter produce: amazing citrus, kale, collard greens.  Continuing to blog, cook, and eat.

Upcoming Posts: More on my great-grandmother’s garden, and my California childhood.  A visit and tour of Ojai Valley citrus grower Friend’s Ranch. More The Local Reports. Cookbook Reviews: Small-Batch Baking for Chocolate Lovers by Debby Maugans.

Or maybe I should say citrus was California?  But no, despite the Southern California citrus industry going the way of the subsequent aerospace industry, I still think citrus is California.  I was inspired to write about California citrus by an article that recently ran in the Sunday Los Angeles Times’ L.A. Then and Now column: “Southern California’s Great Citrus Had It’s Crate Advertising.” The article is about the colorful labels slapped onto the wooden crates the fruit was packed in, and how they were considered cutting-edge marketing at the time.  Big, bold, multi-color images of the fruit and the growers logos let the consumer know that the oranges, lemons and grapefruit of that specific grower were special, above average.

Photo courtesy of the Citrus Label Society.

Oranges, Oranges Everywhere!

As the article goes on to explain, after the completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869 California’s citrus industry exploded.  Between 1880 and 1893 citrus acreage grew from a few thousand acres to more than 40,000 with 90% of it in Southern California.  That’s a lot of oranges.  Growers wanted to stand out from the crowd so catchy brand names, and colorful labels were born.  By the late 1950s when pre-printed cardboard boxes replaced the crates 8,000 designs had been created.  That’s a lot of labels.  I guess I’m a total geek after all because I love stuff like this!  I was also thrilled to learn through the article about the Citrus Label Society located here in Southern California.

My mother remembers coming to the Los Angeles-area when she was a child in the 1940s and seeing orange groves as far as the eye could see.  Much of what is now city, or housing tracts, used to be orange groves.  The industry existed all over Southern California down to San Diego, out to Riverside County and north to Santa Barbara.  One can imagine the air full of the scent of citrus.  It must have been magical.  What remains of local citrus growing is primarily in the Santa Paula, Ojai and Santa Barbara areas.  The California citrus industry ultimately migrated north to the San Joaquin Valley and now ranks second to Florida in overall citrus sales.  But remnants of the old days are still around.

Citrus, On the Honor System

A good friend’s mother lives in Loma Linda, a city in the Inland Empire that is located in San Bernardino County, east of Los Angeles by about sixty-five miles.  The area was once nothing but orange groves; there are still pockets here and there of leftover groves.  On a visit to Loma Linda to see my friend who lives in London, I noticed tables with bags of oranges on them in front of peoples’ homes.  On the tables there would also be a locked box with a slit for money.  A handwritten sign would list the cost of the fruit.  All on the honor system.  So wonderful and old-fashioned.  I saw this again on a recent trip to Ojai (see above photo).  To me this sort of throwback to bygone days is magical.  The trust people still have that no one will drive off with the whole kit and caboodle is heartwarming.

The Thompson children, Lee, De Ette, Russell, June and Ed (my father).

My Father, the Orange Picker

Citrus does have a place in the Thompson family history.  In 1940 at the tale end of the Dust Bowl, my destitute grandmother grabbed her five children, joined a widower neighbor and his two children, and high-tailed it out of Oklahoma City.  Where was my grandfather, you may ask?  He was holed up in San Francisco with his most recent girlfriend, one he’d met on one of his cross-country truck driving gigs.  My feisty, salt-of-the-earth grandmother wasn’t going to let him leave her high and dry with five young children so she went after him.  The group of nine piled onto a flat bed truck, sleeping alongside the road as they drove out to California.  Arriving in California flat broke, the ubiquitous orange groves beckoned.  The story goes that my grandmother split off from the widower neighbor, and she and the children made enough money picking oranges to continue on to San Francisco where she found my profligate grandfather.  And that’s how that side of the family ended up in California.  I can happily blame my wandering grandfather with a token of appreciation to those long ago orange groves.

Citrus still is California.  Citrus, more than any other industry, established modern California.  Orange County has its name because it was once all orange groves.  Imagine that where Disneyland is now used to be all citrus groves.  There was a time when “Citrus was King” in California, and the citrus boom of the early 1900s was called the “second Gold Rush.”  All those oranges, lemons and grapefruit helped continue California’s legacy as “The Golden State” — the land of sunshine and opportunity (and citrus!)

Did you know that California has a state historic park devoted to citrus?  Neither did I! ~ California Citrus State Historic Park

100 Miles Shout Outs! Local events, mini-reviews, and mentions of things happening in the world of food:

#1 – Honest Cooking ~ I’m now a Contributing Writer to the new online food magazine Honest Cooking.  My first story was published on April 14, 2011: “Berlin Currywurst Arrives to L.A.” I’ll be writing several pieces a month about the L.A. food scene.

#2 – Saturday, April 23, 11 am – 6 pm ~ The 2nd 8th Annual Grilled Cheese Invitational, a grilled cheese cooking competition.  You cook.  Judges vote.  Everybody wins!

#3 – Sunday, May 15, 1 pm – 5 pm, ~ Taste of the Eastside 2011, an all-star regional tasting event with a diverse array of Eastside restaurants at Barnsdall Art Park.

My Status:  Enjoying the gradual arrival of spring in So Cal and the new spring produce: artichokes, asparagus, and the tail end of winter produce: amazing citrus, kale, collard greens.  Continuing to blog, cook, and eat.

Upcoming Posts: More on my great-grandmother’s garden, and my California childhood.  A visit and tour of Ojai Valley citrus grower Friend’s Ranch. More The Local Reports. Cookbook Reviews: Small-Batch Baking for Chocolate Lovers by Debby Maugans.

Me, age 1, at Avila Beach, California

I have always loved the ocean.  It has always been a part of my life.  Growing up along the Central Coast of California it was a big part of my childhood.  I spent most of my childhood in San Luis Obispo, a medium-sized California city half way between Los Angeles and San Francisco.  From a very young age I swam in the ocean.  My parents tell me they couldn’t keep me out of the water.  San Luis Obispo lies inland from the coast by a half hour driving.  The closest beach is Avila Beach — a place where I spent many a summer day swimming in the waves, body surfing, and playing in the sand.  For my single mother it was an inexpensive way to spend a weekend day; she got to relax in the sun while my sister and I wore ourselves out.  We usually went home sunburned and covered in sand.

Pan Roasted Arctic Char, Cannellini Beans, Baby Artichokes & Preserved Lemons

I have also enjoyed eating the food that comes from the sea.  Being that we lived so close to the coast seafood was a big part of our diet growing up.  Both my great-grandfather and great-uncle fished the Central Coast waters.  My mother often took us to Morro Bay, a coastal town north of San Luis, for fish and chips dinner.  The lingcod used in the meal was caught a few miles out to sea.  In those days no one gave a second thought to overfishing, pollution, and questions of sustainability.  Now we must.  We have no choice.  We are quickly depleting our seafood sources.  I find it horribly sad.

I recently met Martin Reed who started a sustainable fish company called i love blue sea.  It’s a genius idea.  I know for myself that when I’m in a store at the fish counter my eyes cross, I hyperventilate, I can’t remember which fish is the ‘right’ fish, wild, or farmed; all that confusion overwhelms me and I often don’t buy anything.  Martin’s company takes the guess work out of the process.  He sells nothing but sustainable fish, and he ships it anywhere in the U.S, overnight.  Here’s a quick rundown from i love blue sea’s website:  “Wondering where to buy seafood online?  No more guesswork!  Only the highest quality sustainable seafood.  Every dollar spent supports fisheries driving our ocean’s recovery.  It’s a simple, nutritious and delicious way for you to make a positive change!”  Martin recently sent me some Arctic char and asked me to come up with a recipe which I did.  Here’s to the health of our oceans and all the creatures that live in them.

Print Recipe

Recommendation: Savor Los Angeles, Friday, July 30th, 7pm to 10pm ~ a sweets tasting event of one-of-a-kind bites from an exclusive set of L.A.’s best purveyors of sweet treats.

Coming Up: International Food Bloggers Conference (IFBC), August 27 – 29, 2010, Seattle Washington.  So much fun last year that I’ll be attending again this year.  Are you?

Upcoming Posts: Cochon 555 Napa, a write up of the amazing pork festival that I attended this spring. Cookbook Reviews: Steak and Friends: At Home with Rick Tramonto by Rick Tramonto, Spice Dreams by Sara Engram and Katie Luber, Cider Beans, Wild Greens, and Dandelion Jelly by Joan E. Aller.

There are several components to this dish but the end result is well worth the time it takes to prepare it.  The beans can easily be made ahead of time.  The sequence should be:  prepare the beans first, then prepare and cook the artichokes about 30 – 40 minutes before cooking the fish.  The preserved lemons may be purchased from a specialty food store, or you may make your own but it takes 3 – 4 weeks before they are ‘preserved’ and ready to eat.

Serves

6

Preparation Time

2 – 2 ½ hours, all components except for the preserved lemons

Cannellini Beans

Preparation Time

45 – 60 minutes

Ingredients

4 – 14 oz. cans of cannellini beans, drained OR 4 cups cooked beans

6 – 8 garlic cloves, chopped

4 – 5 medium sized tomatoes, cut in 1/4ths, or 1/8ths wedges

8 – 10 Tbs olive oil, enough to cover the bottom of the pan

1 tsp salt

1/4 tsp pepper

1 tsp herbes de Provence

Method

Sauté garlic in olive oil in medium sized skillet, or sauté pan over medium heat for 1 minute.  Do not brown.

Add tomatoes, salt and pepper, and herbes de provence.  Stir together and cook until tomatoes soften and lose their shape about 4 – 6 minutes.  Stir occasionally to keep from burning.

Add beans and stir together with tomato-garlic mixture.  Cook until beans are heated through about 5 minutes or so.  Check seasonings, and add salt if needed.

Baby Artichokes

Preparation Time

45 minutes

Ingredients

1 lb. baby artichokes, about 10 artichokes

1 lemon

3 – 4 Tbs olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

¾ tsp salt

Pepper, freshly ground to taste

Method

Cut  the lemon in half, squeeze into a bowl of water with several ice cubes.  Save the lemon halves.

Remove tough outer leaves of artichoke, cut 1 inch off top, and rub with the lemon halves.  Add the artichokes to the ice water.  They can be stored in the refrigerator for several hours until ready to cook.

Cut the artichokes in half, return to ice water if not cooking immediately.  If ready to cook, cut them in half, drain off excess water but don’t dry, and place in a 10 – 12 inch skillet, cut side down.  Drizzle them with water, sprinkle garlic over.  Add 2 – 3 tablespoons of water to the pan, just enough to keep them moist while cooking.

Cover the pan and place over low heat.  After about 5 minutes check to be sure they are cooking and that the water has not cooked away.  After 10 minutes turn them over and recover.  As they cook check to be sure water doesn’t completely cook away.  Keep them barely moist.  If you hear a sizzle, add more water.  Let cook for 20 – 30 minutes.  When they are cooked they will be tender, and there will be almost no liquid left.  Season with ground pepper.

Arctic Char

Preparation Time

10 – 15 minutes

Ingredients

2 ½ lbs., Arctic char fillets, skin removed

4 -5 Tbs. olive oil, enough to coat the bottom of the pan

Method

Season the fish with salt and pepper.  Add the olive oil to a skillet over medium heat.  Once the oil is hot, add the fish.  Allow to cook until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes each side.

To Serve

Reheat the beans over low heat while the fish is cooking.  When beans are hot spoon a thick layer of beans on to a platter, or serving dish, or directly onto dinner plates.  Lay the cooked fish fillets atop the beans, add the baby artichokes around the fish, garnish top of fish with roughly sliced, or cut pieces of preserved lemon.

Preserved Lemons, (Optional)

Preparation Time

45 minutes

Ingredients

10 ripe Meyer, or organic lemons

1/2 cup coarse salt, Kosher salt may be used

Extra virgin olive oil

Method

Scrub 6 of the lemons and dry well.  Quarter the 6 lemons cutting from the top to 1/2 inch from the bottom leaving them intact at the base.  Open the lemons gently and sprinkle salt on the exposed inner flesh, then reshape the fruit.  Toss with the remaining salt and pack into a 3-4 cup dry, sterile Mason jar with a glass or plastic-coated lid.

With a wooden spoon, gently push down the lemons.  Squeeze the juice from the remaining 4 lemons and pour into the jar.  Close the jar tightly and let the lemons ripen at room temperature for 30 days, shaking the jar each day to redistribute the salt and juice.  (Within a few days the salt will draw out enough juice to completely cover the lemons.)

For longer storage, add olive oil and refrigerate for up to 1 year.  Rinse the lemons before using.

Read Original Post

Adapted from ‘The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen’ by Paul Wolfert

Preparation Time

45 minutes

Ingredients

10 ripe Meyer, or organic lemons

1/2 cup coarse salt, Kosher salt may be used

Extra virgin olive oil

Method

Scrub 6 of the lemons and dry well.  Quarter the 6 lemons cutting from the top to 1/2 inch from the bottom leaving them intact at the base.  Open the lemons gently and sprinkle salt on the exposed inner flesh, then reshape the fruit.  Toss with the remaining salt and pack into a 3-4 cup dry, sterile Mason jar with a glass or plastic-coated lid.

With a wooden spoon, gently push down the lemons.  Squeeze the juice from the remaining 4 lemons and pour into the jar.  Close the jar tightly and let the lemons ripen at room temperature for 30 days, shaking the jar each day to redistribute the salt and juice.  (Within a few days the salt will draw out enough juice to completely cover the lemons.)

For longer storage, add olive oil and refrigerate for up to 1 year.  Rinse the lemons before using.

Note: you may add spices like cloves, coriander seeds, peppercorns, cinnamon stick, bay leaf or chiles to the lemons for an added layer of flavor.  I would do so sparingly the first time.  You may adjust the quantity in the next go around.

Read Original Post

Preserved lemons remind me of places I’ve yet to visit: Tunisia, Morocco, North Africa, Turkey, and some I’ve already visited: Greece, and France.  Primarily known as a condiment used in North African cooking, preserved lemons, or variations of them, are used in many other cuisines.  They appear in Greek, Turkish, Cambodian and even East African cooking, and pickled limes are part of the Indian larder.  I find them wholly exotic in flavor.  The salty, mouth-puckering lemony flavor is a taste experience so unusual to my American taste buds.  It was when I first ate them, and it still is.  I have always loved lemons and lemony things, and when I first ate the rind of a preserved lemon I was most pleased.  I honestly don’t know where or when I first tasted them — it could have been in France in some North African dish, it might have been when I worked at Oakville Grocery, a fancy food emporium in San Francisco.  Or maybe it was in both instances.  Where ever it was I was hooked.  There are many ways to eat them, and to cook with them.  I like to eat them as a type of pickle with chicken, fish or even meat dishes.  Cutting off a bit with each mouthful they add a depth of  lemony deliciousness to any meal.

I have wanted to make them at home for sometime now and recently had a few organic lemons leftover from another recipe.  Those lemons are now becoming preserved lemons.  It takes about three to four weeks for the curing process to be complete.  I also hope to use them in a recipe I am working on using Arctic Char sent to me by i love blue sea - a mail order sustainable fish operation.  If all goes well, I’ll soon have a recipe for Arctic Char with Roasted Artichokes, Cannellini Beans and Preserved Lemons.  If the recipe works I’ll share it here.

In the meantime, here’s a recipe for preserved lemons.

Print Recipe

Bon appétit!

Recommendation:  Let Me Cook For You ~ for my Marin County, and Bay Area readers.  My sister, Traci Thompson, has started a personal cooking service.  She’ll devise menus, do the shopping, come to your house, and cook for you and your family.  She’s an amazing cook and prepares ‘healthy homemade meals for everyone’.

Coming Up: International Food Bloggers Conference (IFBC), August 27 – 29, 2010, Seattle Washington.  So much fun last year that I’ll be attending again this year.  Are you?

Upcoming Posts: Cochon 555 Napa, a write up of the amazing pork festival that I attended this spring. Cookbook Reviews: Steak and Friends: At Home with Rick Tramonto by Rick Tramonto, Spice Dreams by Sara Engram and Katie Luber, Cider Beans, Wild Greens, and Dandelion Jelly by Joan E. Aller.